Tangata Whenua

No-one can be sure who were the first people to settle in the valley of Te Kuiti. Some historians refer to the earliest settlers of the country as the "Tangata Whenua". The Maori elders of the area are quite definite that Maniapoto, his younger brothers and their people were the first to settle here.

It is not known how long Maniapoto and his people were living at the mouth of Te Kuiti-tanga, the name given later to the entrance to the gorge, when a tribe from the east coast migrated and built a home and fortification overlooking the area. The leader of the new settlers was named Houtaketake. They had not settled very long before they attacked Maniapoto and his people. Houtaketake, seeing Maniapoto standing in the midst of his warriors challenged him to single combat. By a ruse, Maniapoto easily killed his opponent, at which the enemy turned and fled.

From then on the people lived in peace. Maniapoto's son Rora grew up to manhood. Rora was married to Kuranui who, however, did not live long. Not long after this a Chief from Poutama invited Maniapoto and his people to a function and feast which culminated in the match-making of young men and women. He presented a young girl named Kuramonehu to Maniapoto for a wife for one of his sons. Rora stepped forward and indicated he was prepared to accept her hand in marriage.

The peace of the area was shattered by news of war between Maori tribes and new European settlers in Taranaki and later Waikato. In 1863 when the Maori King Tawhiao was defeated in the Waikato battle of Rangiriri, 50km north of Hamilton, he fled south to safety among the rugged bushclad hills. Tradition says that King Tawhiao threw his hat over a map of the North Island and declared "there I rule" of the area it landed over. Thus the King Country, or Rohe Potae, was named.

King Tawhiao was joined in 1872 by another famous Maori leader Te Kooti, who also made the King Country his home after seeking refuge there. He lived in the area for many years and marked his stay by presenting the Ngati Maniapoto people with the beautifully carved Te Tokanganui-A-Noho Marae.

Exploration of the Caves

The name Waitomo comes from the Maori wai, water and tomo, hole or shaft. The Glowworm Cave was first explored in 1887 by a local Maori chief, Tane Tinorau, and an Englishman, Fred Mace. Local Maori people knew of its existence, but chose not to disclose the fact. When information came to light, Fred Mace persuaded Tane to accompany him and together they entered the cave where the stream goes underground. This is where cave tours currently exit. On that occasion they explored the lowest level of the cave by raft and foot. Amazed by the limestone formations and the myriad lights of the glowworms they returned many times for further exploration. On a later independent trip Tane discovered the upper level of the cave and an easier access.

The authorities were advised and the cave was mapped and surveyed. Visitor numbers soared and Tane and his wife Huiti escorted groups through the caves for a small fee. Unfortunately vandalism escalated and administration of the cave was taken over by the Government. The Waitomo Caves Hotel was built in 1910 to accommodate the many visitors to the area.

In 1989 the land and the cave were returned to the descendants of the original owners who now receive a percentage of the cave's revenue and participate in the management and development of the cave. Many staff employed at the caves are direct descendants of Tane Tinorau and his wife Huiti.